Returning to Melbourne last year to find that The Brasserie had closed was devastating; I still have wonderful memories of a brilliant chocolate ganache tart with passionfruit foam that is still amongst my all time favourite desserts. So I was excited about dining at PM24, which turned out to be a great experience; food-wise, quite similar to The Brasserie, with the addition of some incredible roasts courtesy of the rotisserie, and in a much quieter location on Russell Street.
It’s hard to pass up the menu du jour, with 3 courses only setting you back $45. We started with a rich, dense chicken liver terrine, served with pickled vegetables and onion jam on toasted sourdough. Beautifully balanced with lots of sweetness to go with the creamy liver. All the fiddly bits were already taken care of as well; sounds pretty lazy, but you have to admit that having to top bits of bread with multiple items can get messy.
Main course was rotisserie leg of lamb, served with sauteed green beans and a lamb jus. You really can’t beat the simple, delicious combination of meat, fat and fire delivered by a spit-roast. I only wish that we could have tried the roast chicken that was named best dish of 2011 (will have to save that for next time). We ordered a side of fries to go with the mains; thrice-cooked and tossed in garlic and parmesan, an absolute must-try.
Dessert was a lemon tart with a smooth, tangy curd and thin, crumbly pastry, served with fruit salad and vanilla bean ice cream; a nice, (seemingly) light finish to the meal
What I loved about the experience were the little details; fresh, warm sourdough served in cute little calico bags and the fluffy marshmallows that our waitress produced from a massive glass jar at the end of the meal. The restaurant itself is also a very stylish but relaxed space; high ceilings and white-washed brick walls create a sense of spaciousness and an open kitchen allows you to see all the action and Philippe Mouchel himself at the pass! (I admit I was a bit star-struck…) Will definitely have to find an excuse to head back to PM24.